Seven of The Best Runway Shows...Ever <3
In my humble but blessed opinion 🕯️
Good evening, my lilies! Good morning, good afternoon, wherever you may be. I hope you are well, I hope life is giving you roses.
I have wanted to write about my favourite runway shows for a while, but I couldn’t decide what format I wanted to do so in. I finally decided on mini “magazine pages,” to try and keep it “compact” without losing the integrity or essence of the collection. This is not an exhaustive list by any means. I have so many more to share. But for now, we’ll keep it simple.
Here are seven of my most beloved runway shows, ever. Enjoy!
Search For The Golden Fleece
Alexander McQueen for Givenchy, s1997, Paris
Presented at École des Beaux Arts on January 19th, 1997, this collection was conceived and created in less than three months. It was rejected by McQueen almost immediately, and further renounced by critics as a "failure" at its showing. McQueen was only twenty-seven.
Now, it is easily considered one of the most spectacular runway shows to date - and one of my favourite’s, as well. Grecian, winged, and gilded, this collection does not come quietly. It is beautiful.
Marchesa Casati Magic
John Galliano for Dior, s1998, Paris
Presented at the Opera Garnier in Paris, Dior’s s98 showing is one of the best there’s ever been. It is delicious, dark, moody, rich and lush with colours, textures, and myth. If you can, I encourage you to watch the show (link below in the soundtrack section), as it is so mesmerizing.
It starts with a narration overlay, "How kind of you to call. I wanna show you something. Look Closer. Wanna take a ride?" (Contact, 1997). It blends intimacy with mystery. Rose garlands, velvet, drapery, butterfly nets, chainmail, masks, techno beats, and instrumental.
This was the soundtrack:
Beethoven - Symphony No. 9 in D Minor, Op. 125. II. Scherzo, Molto vivace
Angel Villoldo - El Choclo
Goran Bregovic - Ederlezi (Time of the Gypsies OST)
Yazz - Abandon Me, Love Dont Live Here Anymore (Urban Shakedown Mix)
Da Hool - Meet Her At The Love Parade (Nalin & Kane Remix)
Jeremy Healy & Amos - Argentina
Jacob Gade - Jalousie
Che Sia Benedetto
Versace f1997, Paris
Versace’s fall 1997 show is known, now, as Gianni’s epitaph. Gianni Versace presented the collection in Paris nine days before he was killed on the steps of his Miami home. The house has never regained the magic that was lost with him (nor should it, for it was all his own).
This divisive collection is all about religious imagery, gold, veils, and cowl necks. Everything shimmers and shines. It is magnificent. Debra Shaw in a long, golden, gown, the cross embroidered bridal veil, and Naomi Campbell as The Bride are my favourite bits. May Gianni be remembered well - and this show, for it is a beautiful bookend to what he gave the world.
Hot House Chanel
Chanel s97, Paris
I have a difficult relationship with Chanel. I recognize it as one of the most influential fashion houses in the world - and I find myself challenged by many of its creative choices, and Lagerfeld & Coco Chanel’s history herself. For me, the spring 1997 show is as close to perfect as Chanel can get. It is hot house Chanel, it is Chanel at its most elegant - the models along the runway like lovely orchids adorned in Philip Treacy hats and delicate gowns.
The white gown (bottom left photo) that Shalom Harlow wears in this collection is one of the loveliest pieces I think Chanel has ever shown. It is constructed of hundreds of sequin Camellias, all cut away to reflect a cage-like effect. Amazing.
English Country House
Burberry fall 2025
Burberry fall ‘25 was inspired by Gosford Park, Brideshead Revisited, and Saltburn (to name a few). Old English manor essence. Everything is delicious, warm, moody hues and gorgeous textures. It brings to mind a cool autumn walk along a yellow-green moor. This collection had to be included here. I was nearly salivating over every piece when I first saw it.
Merveilleuses Et Incroyables
John Galliano for Givenchy f96
Galliano’s inspiration for this collection was the eccentric, scandalous, and hedonism-seeking aristocracy of the French Directoire period (1795-1799).
This is wandering through a fairytale forest full of nymphs. This is Jane Austen if she wrote gothic horror novels.
Gothic Surrealism
Olivier Theyskens fall 98, Paris
This delightful, macabre, eerie 1998 show was Olivier Theyskens first. None of the pieces were for sale. They were a showcase in his capability. A picture of his creativity. He created these pieces himself, using antique fabrics and lace. Everything sings. It unfolds before us as a story. Props of mannequin hands and embroidered hearts and veins. Perfect gothic elegance. What more could we want?
Thank you for being here, my angels. I hope you enjoyed reading! Do you have a favourite runway show?
Be well and take good care,
Katharine xo
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