Everything in here is from the fall-winter 2025 runway pt. 2
My favourite pieces explored, again!
Good evening, snow bunnies!
Here we are for another round of fall 2025 runway looks. It takes me so long to compile these, but I indulge. I love sitting here in my downtime, snacking away, feet propped up, scrolling through all of the beauty that has just been birthed into the runway world (I should say that more elegantly, but I won’t).
My very very favourites have a ✨ sparkle emoji next to them. But rest assured, I love them all.
Pato, Luar fall 2025 rtw
This collection is all about controlling your own narrative, and honouring those who came before. Lopez, in his own words, honours the Galliano’s, Gaultier’s, and Lacroix’s.
Feathers are a recurring motif, as is 80’s maximalism. Several pieces feature the model’s hands held in front of them limply, mimicking the hand gesture negatively used to imply someone is gay.
Backstage glitters:
Into The Light, Luisa Beccaria fall 2025
Show location: Casa Cipriani, a historic palazzo turned hotel and restaurant. Attendees drank cappuccinos and ate croissants as models strolled by.
Into The Light is an homage to the romance of winter, where the light adds depth to everything. It is about women stepping into their strength, their light. Women who lead their way.
Some lovely jewel tones mixed in with cool wintery blues:
Aren’t these delicious?
This is the loveliest gown. I love the delicacy of it. I am a sucker for ribbons:
Thank you to the lovely
on X for the outdoor detail shots.Markarian fall 2025 rtw ✨
A trip to the country house. Cool waters, damp air.
This gorgeous mini gown (left) is doing my head in. I want one of my own. How can I conjure such a thing in my wardrobe:
Adore adore these photographs of the models walking along the ponds:
Everything feels still, calm. Patient. Elegant but relaxed.
Richard Quinn fall 2025 rtw
Guests enter into a London winter’s night, snow softly falling.
A love letter. A poem.
The beauty of this set is indescribable. I wish I could have seen it in person:
The colours are kept fairly simple, on theme with the black tie event. Bright cabbage roses appear a few times, but ultimately, it is about simplicity through colour, drama through shape and silhouette, and the roses stay pinned to the waists and bodices.
Quinn is a dressmaker and takes it very seriously. He wants the allure, the magic. It is evident in each fairytale piece.
Gowns of silky white frosting and skirts that look like tiered wedding cakes:
I felt like I was looking back at an old 80s-90s runway archive and I loved it.
Backstage:
Libertine, Selkie fall 2025
Selkie’s fall collection is inspired by France’s 18th century Libertines. Historically a masculine pursuit, it was a lifestyle that sought happiness and pleasure. Selkie wanted to take this, bring it into our present day, and celebrate the feminine.
I love these reds. Bright, sparkling. They remind me of theatre productions and holiday fairytales:
All of the colours are so vibrant, even the pastels. They sing! They dance!
Two of my favourite pieces:
Please enlarge, if you can, this lovely look on the left. It is the most beautiful cat print:
A unicorn mask:
Taking this vision board directly from the Selkie website, it is easy to see the inspiration from Kate Moss walking for Vivienne Westwood in spring 1995, eating a magnum, to one of Selkie’s own fall runway models doing the same:
What a fun little detail to include <3
Two more of my favourites. I am so in love with the unicorn print on the left:
It is all so decadent, each dress like a little cake, like a tray full of bonbons, or like a shimmering night sky (in the case of this gorgeous gown on the right):
Little hair miniatures. Inspired by miniatures worn for symbolic purposes in the eighteenth century:
Gator mask! Absolutely delectable:
The mood board that inspired Selkie:
Behind the scenes shimmers:
What a show! I love the romance, the allure, the grandeur. Bravo!
Slow and Steady, Simone Rocha fall 2025 rtw
Inspired by Rocha’s school principle, Miss Ruddock, and the story of the tortoise and hare, this collection takes it slow and steady. And a little bit furry.
It plays with ribbons, fur, metals, and Simone Rocha’s classic and notable creatures - resting upon shoulders, held under arms, and carried along the runway.
The locks are symbolic of bicycle sheds in remembrance of school day romance and naughty fence smoking. It is, additionally, about restraint. A theme Rocha has been exploring recently.
This moment features Fiona Shaw wrapped in the same locks:
I particularly like this little elephant creature:
And I love the beauty looks.
Go on, Rocha, continue to fascinate🪄🪄
Ori, Tolu Coker fall 2025 rtw ✨
Coker’s fall collection is an ode to heritage, “a metaphysical concept regarding birthright and everything which is birthed from one’s aura, self, or soul.”
The show was presented to the soundtrack of Nina Simone’s Strange Fruit. Models held cotton stems. Many of the pieces take from British heritage design. Coker’s intent is to affirm the value of migration in Britain, that British heritage does not equal just to white heritage.
A gorgeous array of corsets, tailoring, sleeves, and fabric techniques.
The corset work is so, so stunning.
I love the pearly white tie with the creamy top and the large collars:
This emerald look, and that wine-colour skirt <3333
A rosary held between fingers, one of several throughout the show:
I am so excited to see what Coker continues to bring forth. I have loved everything from her.
Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen fall 2025 rtw ✨
Whalen’s fall runway was lit only by candles, the room filled with the smell of burning wax and the sounds of Silas Edgar’s theremin and synth. The intent: “to feel it in your body (…) a reckoning with the weight of the world and darkness.”
I absolutely adore this collection. I don’t have many words to describe how it makes me feel, other than in awe. I know one of the corsets was made from candle wax, and a model threw it toward the flames during the show. I am not confident which piece that was, but what a gorgeous moment that must have been.
The silver armour was a collaboration between Whalen and artist Vasaris Balzekas. Each piece is so finely crafted.
Medieval, luscious, and brazen. My goodness 🕯️
Diesel fall 2025 rtw
The backdrop for Diesel’s fall collection is incredibly cool - it features bolts upon bolts of (originally) white fabric that was sent to art schools and street art communities throughout South Africa, China, Europe, and the US. The fabric was returned to Diesel covered in graffiti, handwriting, and drawings from artists across the globe.
My favourite bit of this collection is its beauty choice - smoky white and grey eye contacts, making everyone look a little like they just stumbled in from the crossroads:
Backstage:
Amazing. Truly🩸
Obsessed2, Dsquared2 fall 2025 rtw
A 30th anniversary show to remember. The set: A NYC street full of limos and taxis and other iconic New York cars from which models exited, parading across the runway. No one will be bored here!
This collection, and the performance that accompanied it, is all about entertainment, sex appeal, extravagance, and glamour.
Doechii (left) beautifully opened the show. I love the wonderful belts used in both of these looks:
KISS tribute:
Look at these three oh. my. goodness. The shimmery fuchsia number and WONDERFULLY high leg slit:
Bedazzled denim, and, oh? A teeny scarf:
This look immediately made me think of Bianca Jagger and her white suits:
Particularly this third suit, with the black ribbon:
I love the variety this show brings.
Every bit of it exciting and lovely. This gown is my favourite piece:
What a treat.
Fendi fall 2025 rtw
Fendi house has been run by women for three generations, and this fall collection marked its hundredth anniversary. Silvia Fendi’s grandchildren, Tazio and Dardo, opened the doors to the show. They wore replica outfits of Silvia’s from her first show at six years old in 1966. A celebration of family, and of time.
Adriana Lima, yes, honey!!!
Oh my goodness these prints.
Some of the Fendi fall dolls:
The fluffy, dazzling, pink skirt that no one can stop talking about:
Sorbet colours:
This whole show feels very heirloom, which makes perfect sense given its anniversary.
More of the Fendi dolls. I absolutely delight in seeing dolls as accessories on the runway:
I haven’t been this enamored by Fendi in a long time!
Progressive Romantics, Alberta Ferretti fall 2025 rtw
Romance sits at the center of Ferretti’s fall collection, heralded in by the newly appointed Lorenzo Serafini.
The show was held in the Palazzo Donizetti - where many Ferretti shows have been held in the past. Returning here for his first runway as creative director, Serafini used this as a show of respect. The vision is intimacy, sensuality. A guest described the pieces as “very after-sex.”
Here are three of my most adored looks:
I am also deeply enthralled by the handmade jewelry by a Cypriot artist (unnamed). Each earring, necklace, ring, and button were created from resin, but made to look like cameo portraits. I love their bright bold colours against the soft, amorous fabrics.
I’m looking forward to seeing what Serafini continues to bring to Ferretti in the future.
Marni fall 2025 rtw ✨
Excitement, intrigue, playfulness, and a little bit “weird.” Marni is known to deliver surprises, and never a dull moment.
The fall show was presented on a cabaret-designed set, waiters serving the guests martini spritzes. The music was played live, directed by Dev Hynes.
Francesco Risso does not shy away from his vision. He lets his creativity flow, and we receive the most beautiful art because of it.
Look at these remarkable jackets. The yellow tulips look like parrot tulips to me. The burnt orange tulip on the second coat is extraordinary.
A gorgeous sequined wolf plays upon this pantsuit. What a dream. Makes me feel like I’m walking through a magical forest:
This wolf is, I believe, part of the collaboration between Risso and Nigerian artists Olaolu Slawn and Soldier Boyfriend. Some of these art pieces were featured on the walls of the room during the show, and some art featured on the clothing themselves.
I am in admiration of the ways several designers have included hand-drawn art in their physical pieces this season. More to be read here on The Pink Sun collection.
My lord, these makeup looks. I am so in love!
What a captivating collection. This is one my mind has been returning to again and again.
All In, Emporio Armani fall 2025 rtw
Everything seems conjured with ease in Armani’s fall All In show. Velvet is everywhere you rest your glance. And the motif of playing cards runs throughout.
Bright red suit with big heart pockets!!!!!!:
I love these berets, and I LOVE a deep sapphire velvet:
I don’t have much more to say, other than, cheers! Well done, and please take a bow.
Alaia fall 2025 rtw
I like this bit from the Vogue coverage:
This, I find, is true. I know it is cliche at this point, reiterating what everyone already has. But this must be because everyone is recognizing it. A lack of creativity, a lack of risk, a lack of attraction in runway shows and collections. Many of today’s designers capture their magic time and again and manage to deliver the most beautiful, spectacular of shows. Others, fall quite flat, and more often than I’d like I find myself disappointed by boring colours, dull shapes, and overdone techniques.
Alaia’s fall 25 collection is mesmerizing. Everything is sculptural and if it isn’t sculptural it is bouncing or swaying. This is what I love to see. Something that you can’t pull your eye from, you can’t look away until you’ve watched it all unfold. And it’s the best.
What a wonderful assemblage.
Christian Dior fall 2025 rtw
References include: Orlando by Virginia Woolf, Virginia and her love, Vita Sackville West, and Robert Wilson - theater scenographer, and creative behind the backdrop of Isabelle Huppert reading of Orlando from 1993.
While this collection nods repeatedly to Dior of days gone by (like Galliano’s J’Adore Dior), it is something unique and of its own. Pulling away from the familiar, creating the new.
Everything is very medieval-esque, frills and ruffles and capes and all.
Positively Elizabethan collars:
I have to say, Dior has not been top of my charts for a while now. I didn’t much care for their Spring 2025 collection, controversially, and I do miss the nineties and early 2000’s Dior often (typical). But this collection has startled me anew, and I am pleased.
Dries Van Noten fall 2025 rtw
Presented at the Opéra Garnier, Julian Klausner (stepping in as creative director last December) introduced his fall collection with glamour. Full of embroidery, textures, jeweled colours, and thick fabrics it feels theatrical, over the top, and ready for the stage.
Look at this tassel gown. It is just screaming “pulled together from the theatre prop department” (this is incredibly complimentary, I promise)
Luxurious, rich, warm oranges:
This spotted print reminds me of something Cruella would wear, if we were talking Glenn Close’s version:
I could just fall into a pile of this fabric. Everything is so beautiful:
I love the behind the scenes shots we have, really showcasing just how spectacular this setting was for the show. And I am beguiled by this fluffy white gown:
Up next, part three. As I write this, Paris shows are ongoing.
I hope you are doing well, and I hope life is giving you sweet little kisses.
Sending my love to you as we continue on,
xo Katharine
The selkie dresses and the wedding cake-like gowns were my favorites !! So fun and whimsical🤎🔗🐛