Everything in here is from the fall-winter 2025 runway
My favourite pieces explored
Good afternoon, my snowbunnies. How are you? I hope you are well and life is treating you splendidly 🩵
On a recent sleepless night, all I had the energy for was scrolling runway shows. I found myself plucking my very favourites from each collection. And then I decided to share them with you.
I put a little sparkly star emoji ✨ next to the very best in my eyes. But if they’re here, I love them. I hope you enjoy scrolling this as much as I enjoyed putting it together for your viewing pleasure (and my own delight).
Without further chit chat, here we go <3
Altuzarra fall 2025 rtw
I really like what Nicole Phelps wrote about this show in Vogue Runway,
“Joseph Altuzarra has reminded us of what American fashion lost over the last few decades as it corporatized and traded intimacy and individuality for spectacle and social media impact.”
This collection focuses on pieces rather than an overarching theme. The key points are: femininity, defiance, individuality. Altuzarra gathers inspiration for his shows from books. He gives out a copy to those in attendance of the collections. His reference this time was Wuthering Heights.
These knee-high boots are an attention grabber. They were the first piece I saw from this collection, and I just love them:
Yes! to knitwear tucked into a high-waisted trouser:
These huge coats are such a dream:
Matching shawls:
Uma Thurman’s lilac Prada gown worn at the 1995 Oscars, thought to be Allen’s reference for his chiffon gowns and their shawls:
My very favourite piece from the entire show: a delicate, spun gold gown. As if weaved from a golden spider’s web:
It is magnificent.
Anna Sui fall 2025 rtw ✨
Anna Sui is the loveliest. A proficient designer of over thirty years and so beloved.
Sui’s inspiration for this collection includes Katharine Hepburn and her leopard in Bringing Up Baby, 1930’s heiresses and their fashion (Doris Duke, Barbara Hutton, Peggy Guggenheim), and vintage pieces found like treasure. The jewels were created by Sui’s friend & jeweler, Karen Erickson.
I’m over the moon to see mix-matching of patterns, textures, and bright colours. I had to stop myself from adding every single photo from this show or we would be scrolling all day. I love the layering of everything, it is so delightful.
This is one of my favourite looks:
Tartan jacket, warm colours, and leopard boots, kiss kiss ❤️
I am thrilled by Katharine Hepburn being a source of inspo. She is my namesake.
And here are some of the fabulous Guggenheim-inspired sunglasses:
Look at this bright green lace, amazing:
Thank the good lord for brocade, fair isle, corduroy, wallpaper florals, and tweed.
Most magnificent, it is so rich and lush and everything screams noble, vacationing for the weekend at a grand manor country house, and a little bit ‘playing dress up in your mom’s closet.’
The particular shade of purple in the look above is scratching at my brain from a nineties Chanel show. They are not at a all similar in style, but I love seeing a shockingly bright purple on the runway!
One of the most memorable collections from the season, oh certainly.
Apartamento 03 fall-winter 2025
Showing at São Paulo Fashion Week, this collection is in celebration of coffee, ancestry, and resilience.
“GRAIN • Coffee is our black gold. When constructing this narrative, I remembered Luiza and Dani Luz's “Pano-territory”, embroidered house plans and their stories, which, transformed into narratives about the arrival of coffee in Brazil, become maps of wealth and exploration. By rescuing these memories, we celebrate the hands that paved the paths, transforming the grain into a symbol of resistance and strength. This collection is a tribute to the ancestry that brought us here.” – Luiz Cláudio”
Looooook at these colours. The red and green pull my eye and I can’t look away. They’re exuberant.
I believe the earring shapes are meant to mimic coffee beans.
Rich and gorgeous, this is a collection I’ve loved since it’s debut. A new-to-me designer and one I will surely continue to follow.
Into The High collection, Artemisi 2025 SPFW
Into The High features handmade pieces full of crystal, liquid organza, metal chains, 3D printed bodices, and a rotating headpiece (shown here, as it is much more interesting in video than in photograph).
It is opulent, creative, lively, and elegant.
Divine corset and skirt combination (I love the nails):
It features a mix of Swarovski and Preciosa crystals. It’s very Mugler-esque and showgirl-y.
I am obsessed with this glow in the dark look:
The hanging pendants are so beautiful and so fun. They remind me of uranium glass, fireflies across a night sky, and the green lettering of Goosebumps.
Each piece is so dazzling. I love the use of corsets and embroidery. I encourage you to go through the entire collection, it is really something.
Burberry fall 2025 rtw ✨
References: Saltburn, Brideshead revisited, Downton Abbey, Gosford Park, Bridgerton. The feeling of being in a big old mansion, foggy skies above, glamorous dinner parties, eccentricities abound. Knights in shining armour and dragons, knitwear and velvet, corduroy and florals. Country classic.
The soundtrack: Troy by Sinead O’Connor. “You will rise, You’ll return. The phoenix from the flame.”
I can’t tell you the last time I loved a Burberry collection this much, so much. What a magnificent showing.
Look at this emerald damask velvet. Gasp-worthy, for real:
The thistle pinned upon many of the coats is a real delicate gift <3 A symbol of devotion, bravery, determination, and strength:
NAOMI, NAOMI, NAOMI:
More jaw-dropping damask velvet:
Each colour, fabric, design is so so profuse. Abundant in texture, you feel you could simply fall into them, like a child falling into a pile of coats on the guest bed during a party (age-old line from so many country house stories).
One of the best to come out of Burberry in a long time. My goodness. I am positively entranced.
Backstage glitters:
Caro Editions fall 2025 rtw
Caroline Bille Brahe showcased her fall 2025 collection on a makeshift runway outside of her shopfront. With the grey sky, the crawling ivy, and the stone walkways I feel cozy, full of hope, autumnal.
The photography creates a sort of otherworldly-far away-hazy atmosphere that I love. I do appreciate when a designer stays true to their vision, and it seems Bille Brahe did just that.
Some of her inspiration came from attending Tivoli Gardens and the summer circus with her children - expressing the wonder that kids carry with them.
Dresses of the loveliest silk velvet. I love these blues:
My only complaint is not being able to see these gorgeous details better <3
I was able to find a closer look at the Gaia coat with that festive little clown. Oh she is wondrous:
There is also the Ravnbak Vest featuring a lovely flower lady, and I am so so in love with it:
I love the whimsy that winds throughout. I truly do feel the wonder and curiosity.
And we finish the show with a look fit for “a city hall bride.”
Caroline Herrera fall 2025 rtw
Staged by creative director Wes Gordon, this collection was inspired by the 1979 film Being There. The runway was lined with 3,000 ranunculus flowers as tribute to the gardener protagonist, “As long as the roots are not severed, all is well and all will be well." I think this is a most wonderful origin story for the show.
I love these deep deep blues. The gold buttons make them feel so royal:
I also really enjoy the knit greys.
& these massive golden floral brooches are calling my name. I am always going to celebrate a brooch:
Herrera is not a brand I regularly follow, and admittedly, not one I usually mesh with. I often find their pieces to be just so in a way that turns me off. This is not to rain on their parade - their work is stunning, and those perfect lines and silhouettes do not come without honed artistic capabilities.
While they are elegant and gorgeous, and absolutely something I would wear in person, I find myself wanting theatricality and over-the-top in runway shows, I want to see something fun and a little messy, and Herrera only delivers the most perfect of form.
But I really enjoyed these above looks from this fall collection, and I am pleased for it! I love hearing the reference behind all of the florals. It reminds me of the magic a “small” piece of inspiration can have. We may tuck it into our hearts to be revisited later, in our own creative endeavors. How exciting <3
Cinq a Sept fall 2025 rtw ✨
Inspired by American pastorals and “the romance of the prairie,” Cinq a Sept presents a truly stunning fall collection featuring velvet, warm jewel tones, and denim.
I adore these looks. I would gather them all up into my closet if I could. Look at this jaw-dropping blue, my lord:
I love that the vision holds true. You can feel the warm blowing wind in your hair, smell the damp waters and grass.
What a treat.
Colleen Allen fall 2025 rtw
Inspiration Allen drew from for this collection:
Rebelliousness
Working with techniques and materials she never used to like
Victorian-era garments, finding ways to recreate them without the restriction
The photo of Vivienne Westwood meeting Queen Elizabeth II, wearing 0 panties
“A little bit of butt”
(isn’t this the most fabulous of lists)
As José Criales-Unzueta put it, “[Allen] distills a sense of carelessness and ease, of soulfulness, that is sorely missed in fashion today.”
I’m quite bewitched by this presentation. I particularly love the cerulean gown with the padded hips. And I am fascinated by this velvet house coat and house dress pairing, described by the designer as “celery”:
Allen’s style has been dubbed witchy by those who are familiar with her work. It is visceral, that spritely spirit. I find myself intrigued, and I am excited to see more from her.
Be The Star That You Are, Collina Strada fall 2025 rtw
Hillary Taymour’s fall show is an ode to harnessing agency against matriarchal standards. The hoods and oversized glasses a way of “hiding the tears.” Each model curtsied at the end of their walk - meant to be taken as a threat, rather than an obligation.
The mood was to be carefree and defiant against the power-hungry expectations placed upon women. Dresses at the end of the show were made using vintage first-communion and wedding gowns - symbolic of the vision the designer kept in mind.
Lovisa Lager’s look is my favourite from the whole show, and I equally adore her leg tattoo, omg:
You know I love when a little dog shows up on the runway!
Overall, I have a few little itchy’s when it comes to this collection. For example, ‘girl dinner’ showing up on a graphic tee in a collection meant to be empowering makes me sad. But I like where Taymour is looking to - and I am obsessed with how horror movie noir that lace star mask looks.
All That Jazz, Conner Ives fall 2025 rtw ✨
Presented in the London Savoy’s Beaufort Bar, while No One Gets The Prize by Diana Ross played over speakers, Conner Ives’ fall show commenced.
The show is sexy, sultry, playing upon the jazz age, jewel tones mixed with unexpectedly candy flavoured colours, “scandalous” cuts, and showgirl looks. I am completely obsessed with every bit of it.
Lauren Hutton’s 80’s baseball cap & suit moment was the inspo for this suit and cap look here:
Which had me then seeing Lauren Hutton in other pieces, such as the heavy luxurious furs used:
Cheeky and frivolous little number, I love the huge merlot pom poms and white ruffles:
The animal print, bold colour sequins, and sharp cut of the hot pink mini skirt are giving major fashionista in The Flintstones vibes:
Curious use of fishing lure charms on the bags. I love weird little additions like that, I think they add such character and pleasantries:
Obsessed with these blues. Fall 25 has been a time for some amazing blues. Lookk at the pom poms!!!!! Animal print knee-highs! Fabulous:
The heels in this collection were in collaboration with Jimmy Choo:
This gown is magnificent. It is so elegant, so gorgeous. I think it is my favourite piece, though honestly, this entire collection is enticing and wonderful. I can’t stop thinking about it:
Connor Ives finished the show by walking out in a Protect The Dolls tee, in support for the trans community:
This was in response to Trump’s anti-trans violence. The shirt is available for pre-order on the Ives website with all proceeds being donated to Trans Lifeline.
S. S. Daley fall 2025 rtw
“Cheerful, utilitarian versions of ‘British archetypes.” Daley’s show was introduced with the sights of Big Ben and The Tower of London, moving into West End Girls by the Pet Shop Boys - praising in celebration of the gay disco scene.
The show is about youthfulness in London fashion. Stokey-Daley paid tribute to Marianne Faithfull, through his knitwear, and playing The Ballad of Lucy Jordan at the show’s finale. He shared that alongside Marianne, Kate Bush and Maggie Smith were all women he deeply admired.
I wanted to feature this collection here because I love and adore the borzoi (what I think is a borzoi) pup print, the watercolour-esque paintings, the thick fabrics, and the jovial puffy skirts.
However, I really think these pieces would benefit so greatly from a different runway set. The drab backdrop does not do any favours for what is such a lively and colourful array, and a creator who clearly has a playful attitude about his designs. I love the way they contrast in the backstage photo above. I love the cheerful spirit and not-so-serious take on British fashion! I want to see it against a setting that really does the clothing, and the story, justice.
Venus in Chaos, Dilara Findikoglu fall 2025 rtw
In a damp warehouse on a rainy night in London, Findikoglu presented her fall 2025 runway collection - full of deliriously captivating designs, intricate patterns, and a treasure trove of interesting details. The backstage orders for the models were “MEDIEVAL ROCKSTAR, MOODY BUT ETHEREAL and DON’T GIVE A FUCK BUT HYPNOTIZE.”
And hypnotize, they certainly did.
Every time I look through the runway shots I find myself catching a new detail I didn’t notice the first time around.
This daunting bright red corset piece makes me think of the costumes from Moulin Rouge, it looks like something Satine would wear in a hurry:
This corset and its metal accessories is one of my favourites:
Long copper hair wrapped around the models body is very Botticellis’s The Birth of Venus:
The eye-catching and body-sculpting finale dress with was etched out by Findikoglu’s tattooist boyfriend, Jonah Slater, and crafted by Whitaker Malem:
I read an interesting piece on
about Findikoglu. Dilara has been critiqued for pulling her inspiration from archival work. But as the author of Fashion Absurdism elegantly writes, there is a difference between copying versus making it your own. I really love what Findikoglu is doing - I think her pieces are mesmerizing, her shows are never a dull moment. I’m excited to see what she brings to the runway next. While I see the inspo pulls, I also see what is very much Dilara, and what she is creating to be her own recognizable essence.Erdem fall 2025 rtw ✨
The Erdem fall collection was a magnetic, dazzling collaboration between Erdem Moralioglu and Kaye Donachie, painter.
The very first gown in the show features a painting by Donachie of Erdem’s late mother - a painting that Erdem commissioned years prior to this show. Their collaboration feels fated, brewing for a long while.
Donachie’s paintings were printed on the organza fabrics, dyed by hand. At some places, embroidered. Several of the purses feature Doncahie’s paintings, using the bag as her canvas. This collection is in honour of Erdem’s mother, and “a gesture of memory and love.”
Presented without much commentary, because I really think it all speaks for itself. I cannot believe how breathtaking the paintings on the gowns are. What a special show.
Backstage treats:
Harris Reed fall 2025 rtw
Show location: Duveen Galleries of Tate Britain. Music played: Metallica on strings.
I had a hard time finding more information about this show, but I think it is so, so beautiful. Every piece is art, structural, statuesque.
Reed started off sketching each look in black, and slowly began to add the cobalt and gold.
I particularly love the bottom left ↑ piece for its floral skirt, it looks like the model is blooming from the petals of the most luscious, velvety flower. Presenting this collection in a museum was the only way to go.
Keburia fall 25 rtw
Inspired by the theme of “broken dolls,” Keburia’s fall show looks like something out of a children’s book - capes, oversized silhouettes, gold piping, bold colours, and a reminder of happiness.
I love these tapestry cape gowns. I wish I could find better photos of them, but I can’t seem to! Everything is Important, so it is <3333, so it is.
Thank you so much for being here. Do you have a favourite look(s)? A favourite show?
I’m going to continue my exploration through the fall 2025 shows in a second post, or this would be far, far too long (I’m afraid it may already be so, hehe).
I had such a lovely time writing this up, and I may take my time to delve into spring 2025 next (working my way backwards??) I know we haven’t seen every fall 2025 runway release, but so far, I’m loving a lot of them. It is refreshing ❤️🔥
Sending you warmth and light. Be well, and take good care.
xo Katharine
Omg!!! I loooove
Obsessed with that Into the High rotating headpiece and the Gaia clown coat omg!!